Escoda, Derain, Güeyu Mar
Joan Ramón Escoda is really not an intimidating dude. Maybe it's the sexy (in a Catalunyan country kind of way) hair that made me think otherwise, but the guy is pretty damn chill. Recently traveling with his west coast US importer, Josh Eubank of Percy Selections, we stopped by his family’s restaurant Tossal Gros for lunch. Sporting an Adidas mask, and his hair looking as majestic as ever, JR warmly welcomed us to the table that he was holding court at outside, and promptly opened Mas del Gaio 2020, a deliciously candied white blend, simultaneously complex and immediate, to start things off. Over an incredible lunch we sampled a few Escoda cellar gems but when it came down to ordering bottles for the meal, Joan was a fierce advocate of his best friend Laureano Serres, insisting we order some deep cut Mendall bottles from the restaurant's collection—clearly, we had no issue with this. In contrast to Laureano’s young wines that take on more elegance as they age (BB 2010 right now is just unreal), Joan’s agua vivas, as he calls them, usually encompass a specific kind of Catalan sophistication and lushness straight out of the gate and of course, do well in the cellar, too.
After lunch we went to the bodega and tasted some Escoda 21s just in vessel—Joan was quite spirited about the still fermenting wines and the recent harvest, especially in contrast to the 2020 harvest, a vintage in which most of his grapes were lost to downy mildew, and sadly, his smallest crop in 15 years. Luckily, the wine he was able to make in 2020 is however stellar, and I am pleased to be able to offer a small quantity of those plus La Llopetera 2019, his Pinot Noir aged in amphora and Carmen 2018, a deluxe new cuvée of 100% Cabernet Franc named after his wife; a rich red wine meant for a big winter meal with friends.
Browse here.
Dominique Derain, a native of Beaune, does not present himself in typical Burgundian fashion. Exuding more of a cool guy boho surfer vibe rather than the standard puffy vest image of the serious Burgundian winemaker (nose in glass, neat rows of barrels behind, and dramatic floor lighting), Dominique has for years existed in the liminal spaces between regional traditionalism and the sort of artful contemporary winemaking that is mostly happening outside of Burgundy’s ‘noble’ borders. Derain’s wines are found in both haute cuisine institutions as well as neighborhood bistros and brasseries, and for me it’s within this dichotomy that the wines fit. Bottles just as at home at neighborhood watering holes or curated into Berlin’s newest 20 course experimental tasting menu. Recently, Julien Altaber, Dominique’s long-time assistant bought the domaine with his partner Carole Schwab, and while Dom is most certainly still around as a mentor, the domaine, located in Saint-Aubin, has become a sort of playground for Julien’s more of the now winemaking style.
Just in time for the end of the year, I’m pleased to offer a small collection of Domaine Derain wines ranging from 2017 to ‘19, and from a variety of terroirs. I find all of these bottles as perfect drinks for the table around a festive meal, and especially as textbook examples of wines that can satisfy even the most Cali Zin and Syrah obsessed boomer uncle who stubbornly swears off ‘natural wine.’
Browse here.
Lastly, from the north of Spain come conservas from Güeyu Mar—while the price of admission is admittedly high for tinned fish, these are special, and make for fun small gifts for friends. Please buy the navajas before I eat them all.
Happy holidays and much love to everyone!!
Brian