It’s no secret that my love for the Auvergne runs deep. Located directly in the center of France, and not accessible by TGV (the region has voted against it), the Auvergne remains a largely untouched zone for many traveling to, or even for those who live in France. I’ve oft received reactions of “why go there?” when telling even wine adjacent Parisians my plans to visit. For me, there is nothing quite like this place in all of the country, and it is a region that I return to yearly, if not more. Unheralded for the quality of its wine production to the general wine drinking, and even general natural wine drinking public of the world, the Auvergne has been able to remain more or less underground since the now defunct trio of Jean Maupertuis, Eric Garnier and Stéphane Majeune that comprised Domaine de Peyra first began producing wines here in 1998. Since then, there have been a very small number of winemakers installed here, that on some level, seem to all quietly make profound wines every year. What’s fascinating about Auvergne wine production, is that despite being tied to the same region, no one’s wine tastes like anyone else’s. To compare Pierre Beauger to Aurelien Lefort does a disservice to both, Gounan to Dhumes makes no sense. Everyone who works here makes incredibly unique wines wound up with perhaps the one thing that ties them all together—energy. These are radical winemakers who exude a certain attitude alongside levels of grace and humility that feel quintessential to the spirit of natural wine. For now the Auvergne remains uncorrupted. Here, wine becomes art.
Please join us at Baby Bistro on Tuesday, July 18, at 7 PM for a four course dinner by Miles Thompson, plus a wine pairing comprised of special bottles from the Auvergne.
$225/pp (includes dinner + pairing)