I first met German ex-pat turned stalwart Languedoc vigneron Axel Prüfer this past June at Miha and Tom’s new cellar inauguration party. Amidst the revelry of the evening, a friend and I went up to Axel, and asked if a visit would be possible the following day. “Of course,” he replied gently, and asked if we could come around breakfast time, and if anyone else wanted to join they’d be welcome. The following day, alongside Nathan Ratapu, owner of the fantastic Rerenga Wines in Paris, we rolled up to Axel’s place just on the other side of Bédarieux. Prüfer provided a breakfast of pizza and saucisson, and we proceeded to chat and to taste through most of his wines from 2022, then just about to be bottled. If you can drink someone’s wines at breakfast without hesitation, this is always a good sign. Beginning with the iconic La Capitulation Ne Paie Pas!, a light red or “rosé” of Cinsault, and passed through Chardonnay skins this year, it was immediately clear that like in most of the south of France, 2022 was a vibrant and profound vintage for Axel, even though he remained humble about his work, open to hearing all of our thoughts about each successive wine. After, La Peur du Rouge, a spritely delicate, and yet still full Chardonnay grown on limestone shimmered in everyone’s glasses. We finished up with more lightly macerated Cinsault, and a few blends of other various light on their feet red wines. Despite being a hallmark name and poured in Parisian and Japanese wine bars consistently for over a decade, there is a refreshingly humble youthfulness and understanding in Axel of just how out of control he actually is when it comes to making wine. No ego. I tend to look for this balance of knowing and not-knowing in the personalities of all of my favorite winemakers. Actually, any artist that is too sure of their work is usually an immediate turn off for me. After our refreshingly intimate tasting, Axel ran to the cellar to gather boxes of magnums and made sure that all of us left with at least a couple :).
These same wines are now in bottle and available. Purchase through the site, or simply write me a message of which bottles of Axel’s you’d like to take, the latter method preferred.
La Peur du Rouge 22 $35
Chardonnay
Avanti Popolo 22 $30
Red Blend
La Capitulation ne Paie Pas! 22 $38
direct press of Cinsault passed through Chardonnay skins
Jalava 22 $36
Cinsault
Un Pas de Cote 22 $35
Grenache
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Also, here is a short list of some interesting bottles that I think deserve some attention now. Please write me with any interest.
Guignier Moncailleux 17 $37
Gamay from the rustic master Michel’s Moulin-a-Vent parcel. A few years of aging in oak gives this wine a supple red-fruited elegance. Personally, my favorite cuvée from Guignier.
l’Absurde Génie des Fleurs Delta 22 $33
A rare cuvée from a tiny parcel of Chardonnay that Tom and Miha usually pick early, and press directly each year. Soft and heady white cloud fruits with a subtle psychedelic feel. Canta is the only place to stock this wine on the west coast, so grab a couple now before I put the rest away to age.
Georget Pere et Fils 18 $48
Long elévage maceration of Grenache Gris, a special cuvée made by Michael and his son Raphael. Warm toned and slightly oxidative with fine tannins and a salty finish, this is a wine to enjoy at the table with some friends over a big meal this fall.
Buratti l’Arietta Rebel 20 $25
If you’re still unsure about Merlot (why would you be?), this is either going to change your mind or make you hate it even more. Unadulterated and wild, and a bit on the extreme side, but somehow still in balance, Marco Buratti in his most chaotic zen state.
Panevino Storm 20 $50
All roads lead to Sardinia… or something. Gianfranco Manca has gradually become one of my favorite winemakers over the past couple of years with his extremely purist approach of simply growing healthy grapes and picking at perfect maturity. I also just love smoky red Italian island wines within a similar nexus to good Altura or Cornelissen (pre-2012) vintages. Luckily for me and some other friends who already know, no one else has seemed to catch on in Los Angeles. The Japanese would prefer I keep it a secret, but at this point I have enough to share. Also no big deal if you don’t want to take the leap… more for me :)—insane wine.
Imanol Garay Ixilune 20 $66
Integrated white oxidative stylings from Imanol Garay, whose vin blancs remind me of J-F Chéné and Richard Leroy’s work with Chenin Blanc in the Loire. Imanol, formerly a barrel salesman who listed Leroy as a client, is treading his own natural wine path in Pays Basque, a region that we’re likely to see new upstarts representing in the next few years, thanks to Garay’s mentorship in the area. Ixilune 2020, a blend of Raffiat de Moncade, Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu, and Riesling is now tasting amazing, but will also of course reward time in the cellar.